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A 500km round trip
from the Southern Serengeti
to the northern edge of the Masai Mara National Reserve, the
Great Migration is probably Africa's greatest wildlife spectacle
and one of the World's most exceptional natural phenomena.
The vertiginous immensity of the event is
overwhelming, numbers so large that they are hard to visualize.
Migrants include 1,300,000 Wildebeest, 360,000 Thomson's Gazelle,
191,000 Zebra, and 12,000 Eland.
They join the anyway-large resident populations
of herbivores, that feature 95,000 Topi, 76,000 Impala, 46,000
African Buffalo, 26,000 Grant's Gazelle, 14,000 Kongoni, 9,000
Giraffe, 6,000 Warthog, 2,000 Waterbuck, and 2,000 Elephant.
And then, adding pathos and drama to the
already extraordinary spectacle, a hungry constellation of
predators -most notably lions and hyenas- follow the herbivores
all along their clockwise migratory route.
Lions and hyenas are not the only meat-eaters,
though, as cheetahs, leopards, wild dogs, and jackals, as
well as every scavenger of the area, wait impatiently for
their share of the banquet.
The Great Migration is a relatively recent
phenomenon, dating back to the early 1960s. In the late 19th
century a rinderpest epidemic eliminated over 90% of the wildebeest
and cattle in the region. To prevent a further spreading of
the disease, cattle was inoculated by veterinarians, and the
disease soon disappeared from the area. As a result, the wildebeest
population boomed in the 60´s and 70´s, from 260,000
to the 1.4 million individuals that currently inhabit the
Serengeti - Masai Mara ecosystem.
The growing herds were thus forced to migrate
in their search for water and grazing grassland, starting
the circular migratory route. The first seasonal treks were
probably observed -and documented- in the 60s by Dr. Grzimek,
who first described a definite pattern in the migratory moves.
In spite of the exceptionality and sheer
beauty of the event, not everybody sees it with sympathy.
The Maasai, for example, must rear their livestock in competition
with the migrant herbivores, which they regard as transmitters
of diseases and guilty of poisoning the rivers with their
foetal sacs.
If you're planning a photographic safari
to the Masai Mara, make sure you coincide with the wildebeest
migration (best between late July and September). Otherwise,
if your schedule
imposes travelling during a non-migration period, consider
the Serengeti National Park. In any case, make the impossible
to be in the right place and at the right time for meeting
the wildebeest and their co-migrant companions and foes.
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